Zion Hill Baptist Church as it appeared in late 1998. The church was constructed in 1914 and has seriously deteriorated because of neglect.
Virtual Tour of Zion Hill


The history of the Zion Hill Congregation itself is quite interesting and must remain a vital part of any history of the building itself. In 1878, when Reverend Lawson Reed (circa 1840 - April 11, 1924) first came to Nacogdoches from Shreveport, he found no organized Baptist Church serving the African American community. After leaving the white church, the black members of the Baptist denomination worshipped with the Presbyterian and the Methodists brethren at the Union Church, located next to the St. Paul Cemetery plot in the southeast part of Nacogdoches. At first, Rev. Reed joined his fellow Baptists in worship at the Union Church and even led in services there. His goal, however, was the formation of a separate Baptist church in Nacogdoches. Under his inspired leadership in 1879, those of Baptist persuasion began to worship regularly under a brush arbor between Mound and Logansport Streets. When the approach of winter forced the group to look for other accommodations, two of the members of the little group, Frank and Ellen Walton, gave two acres of land for the erection of a building. The Zion Hill congregation's first home was a one room frame structure located immediately west of the present Old Baptist Cemetery on Park Street. 1879, therefore, saw the establishment of the first organized Baptist Church for African Americans in Nacogdoches County. From this original congregation at least two other Baptist Churches in the city, little Zion and the Sunset Galilee, were to take their beginning. The charter members of the group in 1879 were Frank and Ellen Walton, Annie K. McClain, Jim and Annie Rigsby, Harriet Moore, Hattoe Vaughns, Velma Williams McCullough, and the Reeds.


The main entrance to Zion Hill Baptist Church. Notice the use of the clover leaf design above the door and in the overhang.

Alwyn Barr in his book entitled Black Texan has written: "Black congregations [in Texas] generally remained small with poor buildings and severe financial problems..." This was not true of the Zion Hill Baptists in Nacogdoches. By the 1890s, the Zion Hill congregation needed a larger building. They built their second building, described by one of Rev. Reed's granddaughter Mrs. Ernestine McNeil as "a plain, square church," on the original site of the brush arbor meetings, that is on the west side of the 500 block of Logansport Street. While it is true that expansion of white residential area from Washington Square into Logansport Street brought pressure on the blacks to abandon this second structure, this is only part of the story. By 1914, the membership of the church had already outgrown its second structure. Furthermore, the importance and the solvency of the Zion Hill congregation was recognized by the white community. Both sides worked out an attractive alternative.

On March 16, 1914, the Trustees of the Church purchased the four acres of land on Lanana Street from John Schmidt and the heirs of his late partner Abraham Meyer. The property today is bound on the east by the former residence of Charles Clay, on the north by Bois D'Arc Street, on the west by Lanana Street and on the south by historic Oak Grove Cemetery. Not only did Mr. Schmidt finance the land for the church without a down payment ($2500.00), but he also underwrote the building ($7223.00) without a down payment and commissioned the architect who had designed his own home to undertake the structure. This level of cooperation between the races in Nacogdoches in 1914 is worthy of some comment.


The cornerstone of the Zion Hill First Baptist Church building reads: "Erected in 1914. J. C. Sweeney, Pastor." The building committee, named on the side of the cornerstone, included Charlie Clay, Sr., Rich McBroom, Jeff Powers, R. Horace Scott, and John Townsend. Although nothing is known about the pastor whose name appears on the cornerstone, one can easily trace the members of the building committee and the continuing influence of their descendants in the Zion Hill congregation down to recent time. Without a doubt, the moving force in the congregation in 1914, as it was in 1879, was Rev. Lawson Reed. He had given up the pastorate but had continued his active membership despite his work with the Sabine Valley Association of the Missionary Baptist Church. Reed had become one of the greatest organizers of his day and has been credited with the founding of 55 Baptist Churches in the East Texas area and with the conversion of over 3000 members.

The architect for the Zion Hill building was Dietrich Rulfs (March 6, 1848 - February 15, 1926). A native of Oldenburg, Germany, Rulfs moved to Nacogdoches from Germany in the late 1878s and brought with him high Victorian architecture. Before his death in 1926, Rulfs literally transformed the visual heritage of the city. The key figure in bringing Rulfs and the Zion Hill congregation together was Mr. John Schmidt. Schmidt was also the patron of Charlie Clay, an important member of the Zion Hill congregation and the leading figure on the building committee in 1914. Clay worked for Schmidt as a trusted employee at the Nacogdoches Wholesale Grocery Company. Rulfs supplied the architectural ideas, his carpenter brother William Henry Rulfs supplied technical talent, and Schmidt financed the whole endeavor.


Zion Hill's west tower is reflects a blending of Victorian and Gothic architecture.

The Zion Hill building, one of the oldest extant church structures in the city (if not the oldest) and certainly the oldest Black church structure, is of an architectural character worthy of mention. It is a harmonious blend of gothic and Victorian elements. The gothic elements can be seen in the west tower with its pointed belfry vents and shingled spire, the windows on the east side, and the trefoil or "clover" designed lites over the windows on the northwest and southwest fronts. The Victorian elements can be seen in the building's overall opera house shape and occasional lack of symmetry, in the octagonal lantern (dome) which rests on the roof over the sanctuary, and in the irregular placement of passages and shape of the balconies inside.

Rulfs' design is extremely versatile as well as aesthetically pleasing. There are two main entrances under porch-towers at the northwest and southwest corners. Inside are small antechambers with steps ascending to the sanctuary and balconies and descending to the social hall below. Wrapping around the whole east side of the main floor, from the northwest entrance to the southwest entrance, is an enormous vestibule which can be either separated or included in the sanctuary by closing the folding doors. (The original, horizontal-panel doors were hinged together to fold back against the wall.) This built-in system of partitioning allowed for Sunday School space, as did the rooms located over the entrance towers. While the vestibule had a level floor of 1x6 tongue and groove boards, the floor of the semi-circular sanctuary slopes from the level of the vestibule and entrances down to a raised chancel or platform on which the pulpit and choir are located. The pews following this semicircular pattern are, therefore, naturally arranged in tiers. The balcony, which overhangs the third of the sanctuary area, is also tiered. (The original pews in the sanctuary, some of which were used later in the vestibule and in the balcony, were replaced by more comfortable ones in the 1960s.)


The church's windows reflect D. Rulf's desire to give the viewer a sense of height.

Nothing in particular needs to be said about the procurement of materials used in the structure; all of the materials were readily available at any of the major lumber companies in Nacogdoches at that time. The entire structure, except for its brick piers and underpinning, is of wood. The siding on the outside is the older version of "105" horizontal lap siding with the "OG" groove; the inside is almost exclusively beaded board. Rulfs' rather ingenious use of these available materials does deserve mention. For instance, around the west front he used one piece 1 over 1 lite windows, but he arranged them in vertical patterns to create a feeling of height. These windows did not raise and lower but were made to pivot from the middle to allow for ventilation. He grouped these windows four on top and four on bottom, separated them by four small squares of stained glass, and to complete the top, provided a semicircular arch containing three trefoils. As in European church architecture, Rulfs used combinations of key numbers. At Zion Hill, the numbers three and eight are used everywhere. For instance, there are three towers, each with three openings on the second level; three trefoils, and octagonal lantern on top of the structure and eight sided roof on the west tower. The original pews had trefoil designs, also.


The interior of Zion Hill as seen from the pulpit.

The structure has undergone virtually no structural modifications since its completion date in 1914. This is due primarily to the fact that in recent decades the membership of the church has been on the decline and nothing substantial in the way of revision could be undertaken. In the 1970s the congregation voted to replace the structure with a new one. Many people, both within and outside the church, were horrified by this suggestion. Because of the incredible building costs at the time, this alarming possibility was delayed. In 1975, the congregation voted to restore the church and spent $25,000 doing so. The wood shingle roof was replaced, the building was completely air-conditioned and centrally heated, repaired, and then repainted inside and out. The Nacogdoches County Historical Commission and the Nacogdoches Bicentennial Committee cooperated in this restoration effort. The local chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution paid for the structure to be marked as a Recorded Texas State Landmark. In 1987, when the congregation got an opportunity to purchase a new sanctuary on East Stallings Drive, the Zion Hill building was then used by the Community Action Organization for some years.


A Plea for Preservation

The Center for East texas Studies has posted two VR Panoramas of Zion Hill.

  • The first is a 180 degree sweep of the interior from the balcony. This file is available in either a large (better quality) or small (quicker load time) format.
  • The second is a 360 degree sweep of the church from behind the pulpit, and is also available as a large or small file.

Zion Hill Baptist Church is currently in a serious state of neglect and is in need of major repairs. A plea for preservation recently appeared in the Nacogdoches Daily Sentinel.


Zion Hill Baptist Church Cemetery


Zion Hill Baptist Church Cemetery as seen from Park Street.

 Zion Hill Baptist Church Cemetery is located on the west side of Park Street near the Lananna Creek Bridge. This small cemetery appears on the Hoya Land Office's 1922 plat map of the area as Lot 8 of Block 5, and is identified as a "Colored Cemetery." The oldest grave in the cemetery is that of Julia Harris, which is dated February 8, 1897. The small cemetery has many unmarked graves, which seems to indicate that the graveyard is much older than that date. Just to the west of the cemetery is the original location of Zion Hill Baptist Church, which was built there in 1897. The Zion Hill Baptist Church is the oldest Black congregation in Nacogdoches.

The History of the Church and cemetery are intertwined. The congregation of Zion Hill, under the direction of Reverend L. Reed, originally met under a brush arbor on what are now today Mound and Logansport Streets. The approach of winter forced the congregation to find better accommodations. Frank and Ellen Walton, two members of the church, donated two acres of land, and the church built a one-room frame structure there. The congregation began to bury their dead just to the east side of the church.

Zion Hill continued to bury their dead there until 1945, the date of the latest grave. Buried there are three World War I veterans, as well as two members of the Order of the Eastern Star. The Reverend R. L. Reed, the founder of the Zion Hill Baptist Church, is also enterred there.

The cemetery fell into neglect until the early 70's. The City of Nacogdoches decided to extend Park Street across the Lananna Creek to University Drive in 1971. Shortly thereafter, Lottie Smith Myers Upshaw saw the cemetery in its state of disrepair and began an unrelenting effort to have the city assume custodianship of the cemetery. Her efforts finally succeeded. Since then the City of Nacogdoches has erected a fence around the graveyard and assumed its upkeep.

Today the cemetery serves as a monument to the early congregation of Zion Hill Baptist Church. Buried among the early members of the oldest black church in Nacogdoches is its founder. The graveyard is a fitting memorial to that chapter of black history.

 


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